S&D Firefighter Forcible Entry Door Prop Plans - [PDF Document] (2022)

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    THE GREENDOOR

    SEAN J. WILSON & SCOTT A. GARDNER

    SEARCH & DESTROY FIRE TRAINING, LLC

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    !

    SEARCH & DESTROY FIRE TRAINING, LLC

    SEAN J. WILSON & SCOTT A. GARDNER, LEAD INSTRUCTORS

    5150 HAMPSHIRE DRIVE / SHELBY TWP., MI 48316

    586-231-1478

    [emailprotected]

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    SEARCH & DESTROY CONVENTIONAL FE DOOR

    #

    What follows is a pictorial of our conventional forcible entry training door that wefabricated a few years ago. This is not so much of a how-to as it is a how-you-might. Please forgive me as I dont recall the exact step-by-step order in which we

    did things, but Ill give measurements and put things in the rough chronology asbest I can.

    We were certainly inspired by other props that were out there at the time. Ours isNOT the highest-tech or fanciest door around, nor does it have all the bells and

    whistles. It doesnt have a baseball-bat swing cut-out or elegant hinge-springs.but it is a more-than-serviceable conventional prop that has been extremelydurable, fairly inexpensive, and simple enough that a couple of novices designedand built it from scratch with about $750 seed-money from our fire departmentstraining budget.

    This is for Chuck Olson, one of our friends who wanted to give our door a crack.Im sure anybody out there who makes a stab at it can improve upon our work here.

    If you do develop your own door, whether you use any of our ideas or not, Id love

    to see some pics! Email them to me at: [emailprotected]

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    PORTABILITY BY DESIGN

    $

    One thing we intentionally designed our prop to be, is PORTABLE.

    (Video) City Council Regular Meeting February 8, 2021

    Working by myself, I can disassemble and load the entire prop into the 6 bedof my Chevy Colorado. I can also unload and assemble it by myself, thoughits MUCH easier with help.

    We teach a lot of off-site classes, so portability was something that was veryimportant to us. However if you only intend to use this at your fire station withno intention of moving it, its components could be welded together more easilyand with less drilling.

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    RAW MATERIALS QUICK LIST, PART 1

    %

    Steel:

    ! steel diamond-plate, 48 x 56

    3/16 steel plate, 18 x 30 3/16 steel plate, 18 x 30 L-Bracket, bent to 1-7/8 at a right angle (see slide)

    1/8 or 3/16 U-channel, 48 long, custom bent to 4 x 5 x 4 I.D. (see slide)

    1/8 or 3/16 U-channel, 30 long, custom bent to 4 x 5 x 4 I.D. ! steel plate, 5 x 5, quantity 2 ! steel plate, 5 x 10, quantity 4 5 x 5 box steel, ! thick , 70 tall, quantity 2

    6 x 6 box steel, ! thick, 8 tall, quantity 2 ! x 1 flat steel, 7-" long, quantity 16 # x 2 flat steel, 26 long

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    RAW MATERIALS QUICK LIST, PART 2

    &

    Steel (continued):

    1 x 1-" box steel, 5 long, quantity 2

    1 x 2 box steel, 2 long, quantity 1 1 x 2 box steel, 4 long, quantity 1

    2 x 2 box steel, 2 long, quantity 1

    2 x 2 box steel, 4 long, quantity 1 2 x 2 angle-iron, 24 long, quantity 2 1/8 or 3/16 steel cut into a trapezoid (see slide for dimensions) Round steel tubing (hollow), approximately 12 (should accept 7/16 Grade-8 bolt

    loosely) Small diameter round steel rod (solid), approximately 36 long,

    Bolts:

    7/16 x 3 Grade-8 bolts, quantity 15 7/16 x 4 Grade-8 bolts, quantity 12 7/16 x 6 Grade-8 bolts, quantity 4 3/8 x 6 Grade-8 bolts, quantity 6

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    RAW MATERIALS

    '

    Where the hell do I get all this friggin heavy-ass steel

    from?...Home Depot? Menards?

    Your best bet is to find the local metal mart.in our case, it was a placecalled, uh, Metal Mart. What you need is the wholesale supplier to local

    welders and fabricators. Theyll likely also do custom cutting and bending.If its not one of your hang-outs already, Im sure you can find the place inyour area pretty quickly online. Failing that, stop in at your nearestwelding shop and ask around.

    Also, if you dont know how to weld, buddy up to the guy or guys on your

    department who do and get them to teach you, or better yet involve themin the project.

    Paying a welding shop to do this work for you can get pricey. At least inmy area (Metro Detroit), the going rate for welding is about $60/hour.

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    TOOLS LIST

    (

    Youll need a number of tools, including:

    Welder Drill press (bench-top is okay, but it must be bolted down)

    " corded drill

    " cobalt drill bit

    " airline drill bit (extra long bit)

    Large C-clamps Bench grinder

    Angle grinder

    Chop saw K12 rotary saw (optional, comes in handy if you plan on trimming the

    diamond plate yourself) Table saw (for cutting dimensional lumber after the prop is built)

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    NOMENCLATURE

    )Base

    Top-PieceU-Channel

    Upright(lock-side*

    Wood-box(upright-side)

    HandleUpright Support

    Upright(hinge-side)

    Hinge(door-side)

    Hinge(upright-side)

    Door-stopU-Channel

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    STAGE ONE:

    BASE & FRAME+,

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    DIAMOND-PLATE BASE

    ++

    The footprint we ended up with is rectangular, measuring 48 x 56 (! diamondplate). We cut the corners off, but thats completely optional.

    Had we known what wed need at the time, we couldve saved quite a bit of money.Not being certain, we ended up buying a monstrous 5 x 8 sheet of diamond plate.Weve used the leftover diamond plate for other projects, but youll do much better

    ordering it custom-cut to those dimensions and not have to cut it down yourselflater.

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    UPRIGHT SUPPORTS, PART 1

    +!

    The two 5 x 5uprights are removable. They are ! thick steel. Ordertwo pieces, each cut to 70.

    Each upright is held in place by a 6 x 6 support welded to the diamondplate base. Use ! thick steel, have two pieces cut to 8 lengths.

    You could probably get away with smaller dimensional steel, say 4 x 4uprights and 5 x 5 supports, if you wanted to save money and weight.

    !" $ !" %&''(

    )" *+((

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    UPRIGHT SUPPORTS, PART 2

    +#

    As I recall, initially we welded one support down pretty tightly, then just tack-weldedthe other very lightly so that it could be moved if necessary.

    I believe on our door, they ended up being 37apart from edge to edge. Thats notto say yours has to be, but just to give you a ball-park idea.

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    SPACERS FOR THE UPRIGHTS

    +$

    The interior dimensions (I.D.) of the 6 x 6 upright supports are 5-1/2 x 5-1/2. To take up theother half-inch, we welded two lengths of ! x 1 flat steel onto each side close to the corners.

    We used 7-" lengths of flat steel (16 lengths total), and started the welds a half-inch off of theend of the 5 x 5 upright so that the welded flat steel pieces would not interfere with fitment bycomplicating insertion or pushing the upright up if it stuck out past the end of the upright and hitthe diamond plate first when inserted into the support.

    As you can see in these pictures, we drilled out both the supports and the uprights to acceptbolts to tighten everything, but we dont even use them most of them the time. Quite frankly,the spacers do a pretty good job. I spray them with a little WD-40 every now and then so theyslide in nicely.

    %-./ 0121

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    U-CHANNEL TOP-PIECE

    +%

    We had a custom U-channel bent for us out of 1/8 steel, but 3/16 wouldalso be fine if you want to go heavier. If portability is desirable for you,then a U-channel top-piece is the way to go. However, if this prop is goingto be permanent-party in a corner of your apparatus bay forever, youcould more easily just weld another piece of dimensional steel to youruprights.

    This U-channel is 48 long.

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    U-CHANNEL CUT-AWAY VIEW

    +&

    We had a custom U-channel bent for us.

    This U-channel is 48 long, and made from 1/8 or 3/16 steel.

    Interior dimensions are 4 x 5 x 4.

    $/

    %/

    $/

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    U-CHANNEL TOP-PIECE

    +'

    Ill be damned if I remember how I drilled these out to match. I cantremember if I clamped the upright and the U-channel together and drilledthem out together, or if I just used a drilling template for each individuallyand was very careful in my measurement, and precise in my drilling.

    I drilled these out with a " airline bit, (extra long bit). We use 3/8 X 6Grade-8 bolts and wing-nuts. Its good to have a little play.

    Thinking about it some more, Im pretty sure I clamped them.

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